In search of the Bajau Laut

Jordan Banks witnesses how these sea-faring people live, and the tussle between their traditional values and modernity.

Photo essay: In search of the Bajau Laut

Jordan Banks witnesses how these sea-faring people live, and the tussle between their traditional values and modernity.

The Bajau Laut — sometimes known as ‘sea gypsies‘ — are a semi nomadic people who live in the water surrounding the southern Philippines, Indonesia and Malaysia.

Shrugging off tales of pirates and kidnapping, I headed out into the Celebes Sea, off the east coast of Malaysian Borneo.

Omidal Island and surrounds

Bogdaya Island and its people

My days on the water were characterised by an intoxicating hospitality which enabled me to witness first-hand how these sea-faring people live.

I was able to see understand the tussle the Bajau Laut feel between their traditional values and the modernity sought by many of their youth.

Need to know

Getting there: Boat trips to the Celebes Sea depart from Semporna, 51 miles from Tawau Airport, which has connections to Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahru.

Best time to go: There’s no ‘bad’ time to visit Borneo but the months between March and October tend to be the driest.

Currency: Ringgit

Time zone: GMT+8