Year of Trails

With its forested hills, glittering lakes and vast biodiversity, Alabama’s outdoors is as underrated as it is spectacular. And as this year is Alabama’s ‘Year of Trails’, an adventure here may open a few more eyes to a constantly surprising state.

The bucolic foothills of the Appalachian Mountains enter from the northeast and cut into Alabama as far as Birmingham, bringing with them cinematic hikes, serpentine cycling trails and majestic viewpoints of a densely layered landscape.

And though the state flattens out further south, the trails continue. As the waterways of the Mobile-Tensaw Delta open into the Gulf of Mexico, there are opportunities for fantastic canoeing experiences and some of America’s finest birdwatching.

But start in the north, where Alabama is at its most elevated. Few places capture Appalachian Alabama quite as perfectly as Monte Sano State Park, and yet it’s just a 15-minute drive from downtown Huntsville. Rising over 1,600ft above sea level across 2,500 acres, there are 22 miles of hiking and biking trails here to dive into, without having to travel far from the state’s biggest city.

Over at the pristine Lake Guntersville, the Sunset Drive Trail allows visitors to soak up splendid views of the rolling hills rather than climb them. This pedestrian trail curves along the Tennessee River for almost four miles; the sun’s orange glow flaring across the water is perfect for taking magical photos.

Nearby Gadsden is a quaint small town flanked by the wooded Black Creek Trails, with its eight trails providing a sun-dappled escape that’s ideal for mountain biking.

Continuing south, things get a lot higher at Cheaha State Park. Home to Cheaha Mountain, Alabama’s highest natural point at 2,407ft (734m), this iconic park is a favourite with families in nearby Birmingham thanks to its holiday cottages, chalets, campground and picnic areas. There are plenty of trails to tackle here too, from the easy Bald Rock Trail to the steeper and more challenging Lake Trail.

Down on Alabama’s Gulf, things are wildly different. Encompassing a ten-mile-wide marshy wetland pierced by waterways, the Mobile-Tensaw Delta is America’s second-largest river delta and the Bartram Canoe Trail is the best way to see some of the over 50 rare and endangered plant and animal species living here.

Or head over to the Hugh Branyon Backcountry Trails on Orange Beach, where nine distinct ecosystems, including coastal dunes, longleaf pine sand ridges and freshwater marshes, all form part of a 28-mile trail that couldn’t be more different from life at the Gulf’s luxury beach resorts.

North Alabama

Alabama’s north is also arguably the state at its most diverse, with a vast range of activities across a variety of landscapes.

Start in charming Huntsville, a city that’s become hugely popular with families in recent years. And perhaps part of that allure is thanks to attractions like the U.S. Space & Rocket Center. With its huge Saturn V rocket pointed toward the sky and visible for miles, the centre is full of fascinating permanent and revolving exhibitions on space travel, alongside an entertaining planetarium.

On a more serene level, the 118 acres of Huntsville Botanical Gardens form a beautifully tranquil spot, layered with over 350 species of plants amid neoclassical surroundings. It’s not without its quirks, however: the ‘whispering wall’ makes a bizarre echoing sound when you talk, while the Mother Earth Troll Garden is an expertly crafted wooden sculpture and maze by Danish artist Thomas Dambo.

Head west along the Tennessee River to Muscle Shoals, a small city with a big sound. In fact, this community of just 16,000 in northwest Alabama attracted some of the world’s greatest music artists to record albums here in the 1960s and ’70s.

FAME Studios was a hotbed of soul and R&B, with the likes of Aretha Franklin, Etta James and Wilson Pickett all making records inside its doors, while, just a short drive away, the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio attracted legends like Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones. Best of all, both studios can still be toured today.

Back east along the river, another icon of Alabama has been making locals happy for over 100 years. While not as celebrated nationwide as Texas or the Carolinas, make no mistake: Alabama loves BBQ. The state even has its own distinct white sauce, developed in 1925 at the rustic Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Decatur.

Drizzled to wonderful effect over pork and poultry in particular, its tangy peppery taste and vinegar-like texture is uniquely Alabama. And delicious, too, of course.

Over in the tiny town of Scottsboro is one of America’s most unique department stores. Ever wondered what happens to uncollected lost luggage following an airline flight?

Anything not claimed after 90 days winds up at Scottsboro’s Unclaimed Baggage, where you’ll find everything from jewellery and wedding dresses to mobile phones and laptops. There’s even a small museum here showcasing some of the stranger items they’ve received, including a replica suit of medieval armour.

In Alabama, always be prepared for a surprise.

Central Alabama

It’s impossible to understand modern America without learning about the Civil Rights Movement and central Alabama is home to some of its most important sites.

State capital Montgomery is another significant part of the Civil Rights story, as it’s where Rosa Parks famously refused to give up her bus seat to a white man in 1955. Learn more about her life at the Rosa Parks Museum, before taking in the Legacy Sites.

The Legacy Museum is where you’ll want to spend most of your time, though the more visual experiences of The National Memorial for Peace and Justice and Freedom Monument Sculpture Park are just as fascinating.

While you’re in Montgomery, make time to visit the Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald Museum, the couple’s former home, where letters, manuscripts and Zelda’s paintings reveal the glamour and chaos of their Jazz Age lives.

Since it’s the location of Alabama’s biggest airport, Birmingham is where many Alabama journeys begin, and Vulcan Park and Museum is the best place to get an overview of the place they once called ‘the Magic City’.

From its lofty perch on Red Mountain, there are glorious panoramas of Birmingham’s skyline – distant skyscrapers, smokestacks and highways forming a vibrant picture – but the main attraction is the dramatic 56ft tall statue depicting the Roman god Vulcan.

Down on the ground, Kelly Ingram Park is Birmingham’s epicentre of Civil Rights heritage and its poignant statues honour those who valiantly fought segregation and oppression.

And at the intersection of 16th St and 6th Ave are two hugely important sites. The Civil Rights Institute’s striking exhibitions don’t hold back, and its original segregation artefacts like separate sinks and cross-sections of buses are shocking in their visceral nature. Across the street, the 16th Street Baptist Church was significant as the site of a bombing that killed four young girls in 1963, and now offers engaging and enlightening hourly tours.

This is a state that loves its sports too, and Birmingham is home to Rickwood Field, America’s oldest baseball field, built in 1910. While local team the Birmingham Barons now play their games at Regions Field, the famous old stadium is kept in fine condition and has a small on-site museum telling the story of its days in the Negro Leagues, where it hosted pioneering Black players like Jackie Robinson and Willie Mays.

On the outskirts of the city, Alabama’s love for motorsport is displayed at the multi-floored Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum. The world’s largest motorcycle museum, there are plenty of classic cars here too, though most interestingly it backs onto a real track where riders often practise or race. Hearing the sound of the bikes from the overhead platform as they thunder by is as captivating as it is loud.

For a shot of adrenaline, Montgomery Whitewater Park is just the place – a cutting-edge centre for elite paddle sports and family fun, where the roar of the rapids offers a different kind of Alabama thrill.

Southern Alabama

Gulf Shores’ sugar-white sands and crystalline waters are a world away from the rolling hills of Alabama’s north, which is part of why this state is so unique.

Though before hitting the coast, the port city of Mobile is worth exploring first. And having passed through the hands of the Spanish, French and British before becoming an American city in 1813, it’s had an interesting past.

Perhaps most curiously, Mobile was the original home of Mardi Gras. Though these days very much associated with New Orleans, Mardi Gras was first celebrated here in 1703 and continues to delight every February with parades of marching bands, colourful floats and an abundance of sweet king cake too.

If you’re not in the city during parade season, then head over to the Mobile Carnival Museum where you can discover Mardi Gras heritage, learn the art of costume design and even try on a few eccentric hats and masks.

Mobile’s maritime history is celebrated aboard the USS Alabama, a veteran battleship of World War II that saw action in both the North Atlantic and Pacific theatres.

While it’s fascinating to explore the old warship, Alabama is part of the wider Battleship Memorial Park, which also features the submarine USS Drum and an aircraft pavilion packed with aeroplanes used in various 20th-century wars.

A maritime story of a more sombre nature is explained at the Africatown Heritage House. Mobile’s newest museum is a monument to America’s last slave ship (the Clotilda) and many of the residents of the city’s Africatown neighbourhood are descendants of the Africans trafficked to Alabama on that infamous wooden ship in 1860.

‘Clotilda: The Exhibition’ tells the story of the 110 people on that notorious ship, through a combination of interpretive text panels, documents and artifacts.

Before heading down to the coast, make a detour for Bellingrath Gardens. With 65 acres of delightful gardens and a 15-room, 10,500-square-foot home built in 1935 to explore, it’s one of Alabama’s most charming stops.

Down on the coast, Gulf Shores is studded with breezy resorts looking out at pristine sands, but this is a wonderfully biodiverse region too.

From Civil War bulwark Fort Morgan in the west to serene Orange Beach in the east, the narrow coast stretches for a mere 30 miles, but don’t forget to take a trip over to Dauphin Island. Some 450 of America’s 1,000 bird species either live or pass through Alabama, and the island’s peaceful woodlands are fantastic for birdwatching.

Need to know: Alabama

Getting there: From the UK, fly into Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International (ATL) in Georgia. British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, and Delta operate frequent direct services from London Heathrow (LHR). From Atlanta, you can take a 50-minute connecting flight to Birmingham (BHM) or Huntsville (HSV), or rent a car for the two-hour drive across the state line.

Getting around: Alabama is a car-centric state; renting a vehicle is essential for exploring beyond downtown Birmingham or Huntsville. While the I-65 is the main north-south artery, allow time for scenic backroads.

Best time to visit: For the best experience, visit during the shoulder seasons (March–May and September–November). You’ll enjoy blooming azaleas or vibrant fall foliage and avoid the summer humidity.

Anything else: If you’re visiting in autumn, be aware that college football (especially Alabama vs. Auburn) is practically a religion and a sight to behold.

More information: alabama.travel