The Pacific Ocean is the colour of dark blue ink as I roll back over the side of the boat, one hand firmly clasping my scuba regulator and the other placed against my snorkelling mask, into the lukewarm water. With a quick bounce, and a display of the ‘OK’ hand signal in the direction of our dive master, I sink beneath the surface – slowly, effortlessly falling into the blue – towards Shark Reef.
At around 50ft deep, a vast marine fortress appears. Soft corals, boulder corals and gorgonian fans unravel as far as the eye can see, forming an extravagant gateway to this shark-filled ocean. Table corals glisten in the hazy sunlight streaming through the water. In the distance, the quiet rumble of the boat engine fades and I find my breathing slowing almost instantly to match the delicate tranquillity of this magnificent view.
Unfortunately, Fiji’s marine life hasn’t always been treated with the respect it demands. By the late 20th century, the reefs around Viti Levu’s southern coastline were severely overfished, leaving very little for the sharks to feed on. As a result, species numbers started to dwindle – with conservationists fearing that some species, including the bull shark, could become extinct in these waters in the near future. It was time for drastic action.
As I glide over bundles of anemones, a single shy clownfish pops his head out of his home to observe me before dramatically swooping back inside and undercover. The camouflaged snout of a resting baby blacktip reef shark pokes out from underneath a ledge. Ahead, a school of buttercup-yellow convict surgeonfish flutter their fins to the rhythm of the current, as though they have been appended in an invisible forcefield. Together they swoosh back and forth, a brushstroke of colour against a sapphire backdrop.
Then comes the drop at the edge of the reef. Nine beady-eyed scuba divers and I release air from our buoyancy control devices (BCDs) to swim down to a 98ft depth, following our dive master Silio Raqatima closely. The water is now a dark shade of turquoise, but the visibility remains clear. We line up against a wall of low-lying dead coral boulders, each of us with one knee gently resting on the sandy ocean floor. As a brisk current pushes and tugs at my body, swinging me left and then right, I hold onto the rock in front of me to help stay anchored as I wait, while a small sergeant major fish nibbles at my knuckles.
Located just ten miles from the southern coastline of Fiji’s Viti Levu island, Shark Reef in the Beqa Lagoon has long been celebrated as a first-rate shark habitat. For centuries, several species are thought to have been drawn into these shallow waters, thanks to the powerful currents of the region pulling vast amounts of nutrients from the depths of the ocean floor towards the surface of the water – creating ideal conditions for coral reefs to thrive. In turn, the reefs have supported a high diversity and concentration of marine life such as pelagic fish, sea turtles and stingrays which larger sharks, such as the bull shark, feed on.
In 1998, a South African diver named Brandon Paige gained permission from the traditional custodian of the reef, the Chief of Wainiyabia village, to introduce fish scraps into the demolished reef. He enlisted local divers to help with the job. The scraps – typically fish heads – would decompose underwater, returning vital nutrients to the seabed and thus allowing reefs to reform. After only a year, corals were returning and providing habitats for a wide variety of marine life – from small reef fish to giant trevally, snappers and reef sharks such as greys, blacktips and whitetips.
In the next few years, Shark Reef revived itself with more species, including tawny nurse sharks, the mighty bulls, and even the odd tiger shark finding their way to these waters. With the area now teeming with life, Paige set up a bespoke dive operation encouraging tourism to the region – a progressive move that proved to be a vital first step in entwining shark conservation with the tourism industry.
As word of the reef’s revival spread, Fiji’s Ministry of Fisheries teamed up with another local dive resort, Beqa Adventure Divers, to approach the chiefs of nearby Galoa and Wainiyabia villages – this time asking for help in starting a full-blown conservation programme around the reef. A deal was struck: Shark Reef would be listed as a Marine Protected Area by the Fijian government, and villagers would stop fishing within its parameters.
Simultaneously, Beqa Adventure Divers and Paige’s company Aqua-Trek could run regular scuba-diving tours to the surrounding reefs from the nearby gateway town of Pacific Harbour, with Beqa taking on the role of guardians of the reef. As compensation to the traditional owners, the companies would charge each diver a compulsory marine park levy (now $25 Fijian dollars or approximately £9 per day), which would go to the villages. Profits from the dives would go towards the further restoration of the reef and generating awareness of shark conservation.
Five stealth wardens – our guardians for the day – stand behind us in their all-black wetsuits, gloves and neoprene balaclavas, ready to deter the sharks if they come too close. They seem calm, strong but benevolent, the undersea bouncers of the most thrilling club. It’s reassuring to know they are there. Meanwhile, a head warden positions himself at a distance, next to a large metallic box filled with fish heads. As he carefully unlocks the box, the scent of fish is released into the surroundings, attracting the attention of sharks and other predatory fish in the area.
When the bull sharks arrive, they glide in one by one with an air of cool. Initially, they seem cautious, assessing their environment with a non-committal curiosity. Within a minute or so, a sense of confidence is established, and they move in closer to our trusty wall, eager to sniff out the fish heads.
So-called thanks to their blunt, rounded noses and slightly belligerent nature, bull sharks typically measure approximately 10ft and are considered to be a medium- to large-sized shark. Their big, bulky bodies are muscular and powerful. You wouldn’t think it, but there’s something ultimately calming about watching them.
From my safe position a few yards away, I take in the etchings of colour on their skin; the cloudy grey that sweeps over their bodies with an underbelly of silver. Some carry distinctive fuzzy dark patches around their fins, while others are decorated with ivory-coloured scars around their noses – likely war wounds from an especially hard to crack crab shell. Their mouths form distinct curves on the underside of their snouts; their eyes are deep black holes of wonder. There are – I count – 30 individuals in the vicinity, each with their own character and inquisitiveness.
At one point, two sharks swim towards me almost in sequence. They appear as though they’re holding hands, their pectoral fins almost touching. Mouths slightly agape, showcasing a toothy ‘grin’, they cause me to draw breath at perhaps one of the most beautiful scenes I’ve experienced underwater. A few further breaths and the grace of the moment is interrupted by the arrival of a huge 13ft beast, who swoops up in front of me like a rocket, mouth open and poised, to swallow a floating tuna head whole. In his wake, a large tooth drops onto the seabed and becomes lost in the sand. Not long after, the bull sharks disperse.
Every year, over 2,500 people take part in the bull shark dive at Shark Reef through Beqa Adventure Divers alone. In the time they have been operating, bull shark numbers have steadily climbed – from just five recognised sharks in 1999 to over 60 in recent years. The Shark Reef Marine Reserve is now also a centre of research and study on shark physiology and behaviour.
A comprehensive bull shark tagging programme is in place, which uses both acoustic and satellite tags to track where the bull sharks migrate through the seasons. Over the years, several scientists and academics have attended the dive site, conducting behavioural studies, researching the genome of bull sharks and even collecting tissue samples to look into shark dementia and the effects of mercury poisoning. Regular biodiversity assessments of the reef are also undertaken.
The controversial aspect of feeding the sharks fish heads to lure them to the dive site is also something that has been studied extensively at Shark Reef – with results showing little evidence that shark behaviour is conditioned by the controlled feeds. In the 2018 paper, You Are What You Eat: Examining The Effects of Provisioning Tourism on Shark Diets, scientists from James Cook University, Queensland deduced: ‘There was no evidence of incorporation of food provided, even for individuals who regularly consume food rewards. Current levels of provisioning likely have no long-term impacts on bull shark diet or behaviour.’
Ambassador for The Shark Trust Caroline Robertson-Brown agrees that feeding does not the condition the sharks if it’s done suitably: ‘[In this case] the sharks are not fed enough where they aren’t [hunting] traditionally the rest of the time. Through responsible practice, and by making sure [Beqa Adventure Divers] aren’t doing the same thing all day, every day, any likelihood of conditioning is lessened greatly. Which I know is something they are aware of in Fiji.’
Perhaps most importantly, however, is the way in which this shark-diving experience broadens the general public’s understanding of the vital role sharks play within an ecosystem. With media reports often focussing on shark incidents in which human beings are injured, there is little effort made to acknowledge shark attacks are particularly rare, and often not intentional.
By providing the public with an exciting and educational experience at Shark Reef, visitors often leave as ambassadors for the wildlife and the environment they have witnessed. It is, for this reason, that this particular shark-diving experience is supported by organisations such as the Save Our Seas Foundation and the Shark Foundation.
‘One of the most important links between shark diving and shark conservation is that it allows a love of sharks to be shared widely,’ explains Caroline. ‘Very few people are going to see a shark in the wild, but if those who do can share these positive experiences, that has to help raise awareness around every shark species. That can change the general negative portrayal of sharks that we see in the media.’
Meanwhile, the now world-famous Fiji bull shark dive is considered one of the most eco-conscious shark-diving experiences, with conservation at the forefront of the experience.
Profits from the dives have allowed Beqa Adventure Divers to train local villagers, including former fishermen, to become dive masters and guides as well as marine-reserve wardens who protect the area against illegal fishing.
Even better, village chiefs have used the income from the compulsory marine-park levy to plant extensive mangroves along parts of the southern coastline of Viti Levu, which now act as wildlife habitats, enriching the water with further nutrients and allowing space for developing ecosystems.
What strikes me most, however, is that sharks have always been entwined in Fiji’s story. In fact, local mythology has long told of the shark god Dakuwaqa, who takes the form of a Fijian man with the upper body of a shark and is worshipped by fishermen and seafarers who believe he protects them from the dangers of the ocean.
As a result, sharks are highly revered in Fijian culture and so it comes as no surprise that there is a strong local desire for Fijians to protect their shark populations.
As we return to the boat, an almighty cheer erupts from the divers and the guides. This extraordinary opportunity isn’t lost on any of us. Without such conservation efforts, it may never have happened. It seems that an enterprising South African with a bucket of fish heads may have changed the course of history.
Need to know
Getting there: Pacific Harbour is a two-hour drive away from Suva-Nausori International Airport; rental cars are available from the airport kiosks. Local buses run from the central bus station in the capital, Suva, and take approximately 90 minutes.
Best time to go: The dry season, from May to October, is best for underwater visibility throughout the Fijian Islands. If possible, avoid the peak months of December and January when prices are at their highest.
Food: Fijian cuisine consists of a wonderful mix of influences. Most menus will sample everything from fresh seafood and local fruits to north Indian-style curries, southeast Asian stir fries and Chinese-style dishes.
Where to stay: Uprising Beach Resort’s villas open into beautiful gardens and onto the golden sands of Palm Beach.
How to do it: Beqa Adventure Divers, based in Pacific Harbour, offer a two-tank dive to Shark Reef, weather permitting, several days per week. It’s advisable to book your dive in advance.
Must-pack item: Invest in a well-fitted snorkelling mask before you go so you’re not having to clear a foggy borrowed mask during this mind-blowing experience.
Why go: As well as being home to one of the world’s most prolific shark conservation programmes, Fiji is the ideal place to experience a variety of other marine life in the wild.
