When I double over next to him, trying to catch my breath, I see what has stopped him in his trail-running tracks – and there’s no longer any hope of my lungs returning to normal.

The ruffled, tawny fur of a black bear is visible about 50 metres in front of us, but that’s not what causes my breath to catch. I slowly aim my bear spray at the protective mama bear as a tiny black cub shimmies down the tree in front of her. She huffs in our direction, a mockery of my inability to catch my breath, and then she and her cub begin to amble away from us.  We are left behind, untouched but awestruck by what we just witnessed: a sacred moment in this alpine church.

A month later, areas of Jasper National Park (established in 1907) were on fire, with the town and surrounding area under evacuation orders. When residents returned more than 33,000 hectares of land had been impacted.

“Just be sure to support the businesses on the ground,” says Sylvie Walsh, owner of Ransom Jasper, a small business with an in-house clothing line. “This includes buying your groceries in town, eating out for dinner at Jasper’s first distillery, Maligne Range, and purchasing goods from local boutiques.”

“But be aware that not everyone is going to want to talk about their experiences [during the fire],” she adds. “So please be respectful of that.”

While sections of the National Park, like Maligne Canyon, are still temporarily closed, local businesses like Rockaboo Mountain Adventures and Sun Dog Tours are pivoting to provide alternative activities like ice climbing in the centre of Jasper on a man-made ice wall, or a hike through Pleckaitis Canyon.

Not wanting to tempt fate on foot again, I take a scenic drive in search of the iconic bull elk, majestic moose and hump-backed grizzlies that roam freely around the park, and, as I know from experience, when I’m ready to move on from this mountainous paradise, the best way to get from one of Alberta’s parks to another is by car.

I suck thin mountain air into my heaving lungs as I feel my body pulse. I am alive, I am one with myself here. And it’s a feeling I can’t quite replicate anywhere else.

There’s no WiFi in the newly renovated lodge and no televisions in the rooms. Instead, I read next to a crackling fire and sip coffee while gazing out the window at the surrounding peaks and glaciers. It’s the perfect place to escape, to reconnect with my wild self, to find sanctuary in nature.

The Lodge at Bow Lake, formerly Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, is an upscale mountain retreat located in Banff National Park (established in 1885) and tucked into the shadow of Mount Jimmy Simpson, named for the intrepid mountain guide who built the first cabin here over 100 years ago.

Now it’s a haven for outdoor lovers looking to explore the park in a more intimate way, with ample access to hiking, climbing and paddling in the summer and skiing and snowshoeing in the winter.

I’ve just resurfaced from the icy hold of the creek behind the rustic sauna where I will warm my chilled bones: the cold plunge immersion just one of the offerings that the lodge provides, the all-inclusive experience a complete disconnect from the hustle and bustle of the modern world.

He shows me how to identify buffalo berry, a bear’s main food source; how the Wild Rose can be harvested, dried and ground for tea; and how the yeast of the trembling aspen can be used to make beer and bread.

I find further refuge in ‘smudging’ – a ceremony in which sacred Indigenous medicine, such as sweetgrass, sage and cedar, is burned to purify the body and soul – at Sundance Canyon near Banff.

My guide, Heather Black, is a member of the Blood Tribe and the lead guide and founder of Buffalo Stone Woman, an outdoor adventure company that arranges “Indige-scape Tours” that include hiking, cycling and snowshoeing.

Or I spend time floating serenely down the Bow River before toasting a day well-spent with a frothy, locally brewed beer at one of the many breweries that can be found throughout the city.

Colder days, of which we have many in this urban haven, may find me at a gin-making class, offered by Burwood Distillery, an intro to latte art and steaming class at Phil and Sebastien or discovering the history of Canadian music at Studio Bell.

However, ultimately, nature has a particularly strong pull on my explorer’s soul, and no more so than in Kananaski Country, a series of provincial parks loved for their hiking, paddling and skiing.

I backcountry camp with my young son on the turquoise waters of Upper Kananaskis Lake and tackle the hike up Smutwood Peak, enjoying views of Birdwood Lakes, resting in the shade of the indomitable Mount Smuts.

I paddle on Barrier Lake, on the rare occasion that the wind is resting, and glide down beautifully groomed and track-set Nordic ski trails in winter.