This feels like the perfect tonic after a long day of travelling. In truth, we had relaxed the moment we stepped through the doors of the graceful Georgian building, thanks in no small part to the friendly and unstuffy staff who are dressed in impeccable uniforms that are on just the right side of casual.
First, though, to our accommodation: a huge twin room with beds large enough it feels as though we could fit four people in here. As elsewhere in the hotel, colours are soothing and muted, but not bland – so in our room, an almost denim blue on the panelling mixes with browns and greys, complemented by splashes of colour like a bright red rotary-dial phone, and artwork that gently suggests you’re in Scotland rather than slapping you in the face with it.
It’s the little touches that makes a stay here feel luxurious: from the properly good hairdryer and the ridiculously good shower to the cosy bathrobes and slippers, and the helpful sign telling you all the things that are available, from umbrellas and phone chargers to lip balm and lint rollers.
Relaxation feels very much the name of the game, too, aided by the fantastic spa, which has a beautiful pool – don’t miss the opportunity to try one of the treatments that use ishga products, made with Scottish seaweed. There’s also a well-equipped gym or, if you prefer, you can use your in-room yoga mat for a spot of exercise.
Social hour is held daily in one of the hotel’s two bars – unsurprisingly, it is incredibly popular, but we each grab a glass of wine and find seats in the Garden Room, where rattan chairs, potted plants and a conservatory roof make it feel more like we’re in Southeast Asia than the middle of Edinburgh.
This is the perfect spot for soaking up our surroundings, and for a bit of people-watching as other guests arrive, meet up for drinks or pad down to the spa in their robes.
Afterwards, we head to BABA, one of the hotel’s two restaurants. Local friends had already raved about the food, which is Levantine inspired, and even though it’s only a Wednesday the room is buzzing with conversation.
We try a range of mezze and charcoal-grilled dishes, the highlight of which are the smoky flavours of the BABA ghanoush and the ridiculously soft pita bread. Our only complaint is that we’re both too tired to eat as much as we’d like.
Of course, a city hotel is only really as good as its location, and this one is ideal – the 15-minute walk there from Waverley Station had been the ideal leg-stretcher after hours of sitting down and had afforded us lovely views of the castle, lit up for the evening, and providing that “we’re in Edinburgh!” moment.
Despite being just off busy Princes Street, it has a tucked-away feel – and is just moments away from the city’s major shopping areas, and an easy stroll from the West End and the Old Town.
The next morning, we take a window table in the breakfast room and watch as the sun nudges up over the elegant buildings around the square, bathing them in soft, honey-coloured light.
We take our time, making repeat visits to the hot- and cold-food offerings, and watch the world go by, reluctant to leave our little city-centre cocoon. kimptoncharlottesquare.com; from £201/night
Three more city hotels with pools
La Mamounia, Marrakech
This celebrated hotel has an incredibly beautiful indoor pool, surrounded by archways and traditional tiling; the perfect place to wind down after a day spent exploring mesmerising Marrakech.
mamounia.com; from £485/night.
Can Alomar, Palma de Mallorca
A gorgeous rooftop pool crowns the offerings at this striking hotel, set in a restored 19th-century palace that combines modern design with traditional features in the heart of the city.
canalomarhotel.com; from £255/night
The Gainsborough, Bath Spa
Embrace the spa-town history of Bath in the elegant pool at this city-centre hotel, where mosaic tiles, graceful columns and a glass atrium create a soothing environment.
thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk;
from £200/night
