Gran Canaria
The original holiday haven
Ross Clarke discovers how Las Palmas de Gran Canaria charmed everyone from Agatha Christie to King George VI.
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Iโm sitting in the rooftop bar of the luxuryย Santa Catalina Royal Hideaway Hotelย sipping a glass of local wine and flicking gingerly through a guidebook written in 1913.
Its front pages are inscribed with adverts for ship passage between the UK and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
The back is filled with entries for hotels, including this one. Below a hand-drawn sketch of the hotelโs terrace, it tells me that it is โinstalled with electric lightโ, is โsurrounded by its own beautiful palm grovesโ and is โnear the English churchโ.
The hotelย was the grandest ofย many hotels and guesthousesย built in the capital city of Gran Canaria around the turn of the 20thย century to accommodate the ever-increasing numbers of tourists lured here by the supposed healing waters, temperate climate, and the relatively cheap ticket prices (if you were wealthy). Back in 1900, more than 450 Brits were registered as living in the city, in no small part due to the capitalโs port being the last fuelling point for steam ships travelling to the Americas.
Puerto de la Luz was built by the British company Swanston, who won the contract, and subsequently, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria became something of a go-to destination, a place to see and be seen, long before the tourist waves started to arrive on the islandโs southern costas in the 1960s.
โO knight, thou lackest a cup of Canary,โ says Sir Toby Belch in Shakespeareโs Twelfth Night. Thatโs because before Brits were quaffing port or Madeira, they were sipping Canary sack โ wine produced from Malvasรญa (Malmsey) grapes on the islands. Itโs said that the Bard even had a barrel of the stuff written into all his work contracts.
It had a major decline over the next 400 years, but thankfully Canarian wine is back in a big way with producers regrowing native varieties, which were never plagued by the phylloxera blight that wiped out almost all of Europeโs vines in the late 19th Century. Thereโs now a self-guided wine route,ย Ruta del Vino de Gran Canaria, that allows you to visit wineries, vineyards, bars and restaurants that champion local wines.
In the bright morning sunshine, I wander to the aforementioned English church, standing a few streets away. Built in 1891, theย Holy Trinity Church of Las Palmasย still conducts services in English every Sunday. On the way, I pass theย British Club, a sort of cultural association and membersโ club founded in 1908 that has welcomed many dignitaries including the then Duke and Duchess of York, later King George VI and Queen Elizabeth.
The handsome building painted in deep red was once on the front line of the bracing Atlantic Ocean but now sits back from the water, after land was reclaimed from the sea for a main road and pedestrian promenade that runs the length of the city.
A plaque outside tells me that this was where Agatha Christie stayed when visiting the island and where she took inspiration for The Companion.
I continue down Calle Leรณn y Castillo, the main artery of the city that connects the port and old town and I end up in the grand streets of Triana. Halfway down the main shopping thoroughfare, I cross a section of old railway tracks, a remnant of La Pepa, a tram that once ferried passengers from this high-end neighbourhood to the port, and I get visions of Panama-hatted men and parasol-shaded women enjoying the warm weather.
Fashions might have changed but there are still plenty of tourists excitedly hopping in and out of the chic shops, and dining on late breakfasts at the many cafes that line the side streets. I canโt help but join the locals eating wedges ofย tortilla de papasย (Spanish omelette) and supping cafรฉย con leche y leche (cafรฉ with milk and a drop of condensed milk)ย atย Cafeteria Midway.
The Guiniguada riverbed is a main road these days, but itโs from here that the city took its name, as when the Spanish arrived to colonise the island, this area was full of lush palm groves.
I veer off to the left towards an orange-pink building. Itโs theย municipal marketย that was opened in 1858 and has provided the capitalโs residents with fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat and provisions ever since. Due to the islandโs climate and soils, all sorts of produce is grown here, from avocados to papayas, and the sweet scent of tropical fruit is intoxicating as I wander the aisles.
Itโs time for refreshment, so I find theย Canary Wineย stall and raise a toast โ with my very own cup of Canary โ to the Brits who first fell in love with this city by the sea over a century ago.
Discover more of
Gran Canaria
Engraved on my heart
inspiration activities culture for you.
Getting there
The island has one international airport (LPA) that has regular flights to major destinations in Europe and around the globe.
Las Palmas port is a main cruise stop and dock for ferries from mainland Spain.
Best time to go
As you are travelling around the island youโll notice differences in temperature and sunshine, but the weather here is rarely extreme and so thereโs never a bad time to visit.
Spring and autumn tend to be quieter times with fewer tourists.
Where to stay
Theย Parador de Cruz de Tejedaย is in the centre of the island with views of the mightyย calderaย (crater) and both Roques. The pool allows you to swim out into the pine trees.
Occidental Roca Negraย is an adults-only hotel in the pretty port town of Agaete. The boutiqueย Hotel Emblemรกtico Agรกldarย is in the centre of Gรกldar, moments from the historic sights.
Must-pack item
A good pair of hiking boots is wise for scaling the Roques and for more adventurous walking in the mountains and countryside.
As the weather is variable depending on which part of the island you find yourself, pack layers, sun cream and a hat.
How to do it
Gran Canaria is an easy four-hour flight from the UK and a popular holiday destinations year-round.
Many of the historic sites can be reached easily on a day trip or you could hop around the islandย staying at different pointsย to explore.
Anything else
Many place names come from the language of the original Canarios including Gรกldar, Telde, Agaete, Tejeda, Arucas, and Arguineguรญn.
They called the island Tamaran.




