Wetland and
Wildlife
Sarah Rodrigues gets up close and personal with alligators in the Atchafalaya Basin, Louisiana
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โHow many fingers do you have?โ I ask our airboat captain, Nick Friedman, with a mixture of levity and genuine curiosity.
โEight,โ he replies laconically, in his Cajun country accent, combining clipped vowels and a sing-song drawl.
My eyes widen in a combination of disbelief and horror. โI got two thumbs as well, though,โ he continues. โAnd I think โฆ around nine toes. Then again, I only started this job three days ago.โ
Weโre about to embark withย Basin Landing, an operation conducting airboat swamp tours on the Atchafalaya Basin since 1999. Nick, far from having been on the job for a matter of days, represents the second generation of this family-owned business.
Airboats are ideally designed for swamp tours, featuring a flat bottom, plus a motor and propeller that sit above the water, allowing them to navigate extremely shallow areas of the watery Louisiana landscape.
Banish thoughts of serene sailing: airboats are as noisy as they come, and Nick equips us with ear protection headphones before setting off โ in search of alligators, hence my quizzing of his digit count. โYโall keep your arms and legs inside the boat, now,โ he cautions. โOtherwise โฆโ His shrug makes finishing the sentence unnecessary.
Think โswampโ and you might think of muddy, murky water, festering turgidly under a dome of hot sky and clouded by low-flying swarms of mosquitoes.
Thereโs little sense of what lies in those impenetrable depths but, as Nickโs shrug signifies, you can be sure itโs not friendly. Why else did Shrek live in a swamp? Everyone knows that he was as cantankerous and curmudgeonly as a creature can be.
But reframe your thoughts, because swamps โ or wetlands, as they are more appealingly known โ are places of immense beauty.
As we roar through the Atchafalaya Basin in Louisiana โ the largest swamp in the United States โ we pass jagged cypress trunks, rising from the dark waters like wooden tombstones. Others still bear their aromatic leaves, and dark markings on the wood display previous water levels.
Occasionally, a great blue heron, perched atop one of the truncated trees, objects to the roar of the airboat and takes flight, its wingspan, as wide as 2 metres, startling to witness.
Elsewhere, flocks of roseate spoonbills, their plumage pinked by a diet of crustaceans, form cotton-candy clouds above the dull waters.
Nick knows where the wild things are and expertly guides the boat in that direction; along the way, we pass groups of friends in motorised aluminium runabouts, out on fishing expeditions, where they might expect to catch local Louisiana species such as catfish, bream and crappie. Their boats look far less substantial than ours; I hope they know to keep their limbs contained.
Nick stops the motor and we remove our headphones, peering eagerly in every direction. Itโs not long before a subtle glide breaks the stillness of the swamp water and, on approach, a blunt snout and two preternaturally green, unblinking eyes appear, followed by a serrated back and tail.
The pattern reminds me of childhood macrame projects, an activity as far removed from my current one as imaginable. Soon, a crowd of prehistoric shapes surround our vessel, attracted by Nick agitating the water with his paddle. Occasionally, they take a snap โ and their teeth are quite something to behold.
Theyโre not shy, these fascinating creatures โ not only in terms of their interest in our presence and their savage jaws, but also in the sassy wiggles displayed via their tails.
Baby got back! Theyโre obviously accustomed to Nickโs presence, allowing him to scoop water from the paddle over their backs, in the way that a dog might allow its chin to be tickled.
Significantly, from a responsible tourism point of view, I see none of the antics Iโve seen on other โgator spotting tours, where the reptiles are encouraged to leap into the air in pursuit of high-dangling bait, all for the sake of a photo opp.
Indeed, thereโs little need to coax the alligators to perform; their natural antics are entertaining enough. We watch two come snout to snout and, with an elegant flick of the tail, disdainfully turn their backs on one another. Others arenโt quite as cool in their contempt for their peers, gnashing angrily on approach. Over on the bank, an adult 10-footer basks in the sun: heโs seen it all before and canโt be bothered to get involved. Leave the nippers โ literally โ to it.
Still within the Atchafalaya Basin, you need only drive 20 minutes east of buzzy Lafayette to discover the serenity of Lake Martin, known to be a birderโs paradise.
Over 200 species of bird โ some perennial, some migratory โย may be spotted here, including egrets, ibis, anhinga and cormorants.
Spanish moss โ which, incidentally, is neither Spanish, nor moss โ hangs, Blair-Witch-like, from the cyprus trees. Itโs so named because itโs reminiscent of the beards of Spanish conquistadors.
Make tracks for Cypress Island Reserve, where a seasonal (autumn to spring) track allows exploration of the area on foot.
Although part of a separate watershed, one fed by saltwater from the Gulf of Mexico and freshwater from surrounding rivers rather than the Mississippi River, alligators are also present in Northshore.
This area is located in the St. Tammany Parish, around 40 minutes from New Orleans, but the clearer waters might make Lake Pontchartrain more palatable for some outdoor enthusiasts.
Thatโs not to mention the many opportunities for non-water-based activities, including biking and hiking.
Birdwatching is, again, a large draw; itโs a good place to spot the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker...
While kayaking and paddleboarding are on offer for those who prefer a more tranquil and singular experience of being on the water than an airboat allows.
Cheek-by-jowl with Lake Pontchartrain, Fontainebleau State Park ticks all the boxes for anyone who prefers to see, rather than be on, the water. Covering 2,800 acres, thereโs a sandy beach, as well as a disused railway line thatโs been converted for cyclists and hikers, with signs en route giving intel on what youโre seeing.
Campsites and waterfront cabinsย are available for those who wish to stay just a little bit longer, and boats are available for hire if the siren song of the water is irresistible.
More than half of Louisiana is swamp. A good chunk of the other half? Insanely irresistible food. Squeeze some adventure in there somewhere: your senses, and waistline, will thank you for it.
Discover more of
Louisiana
Engraved on my heart
inspiration activities culture for you.
Getting there
American Airlines and British Airways both offer a direct service from London Heathrow to New Orleans, Louisiana.
Best time to go
Opt for the shoulder seasons, spring and autumn, to avoid the high, sticky temperatures of a Louisiana summer.
Winter can be pleasant, but unexpected mercury-plummets can also occur.
Where to stay
Youโre spoilt for choice in the closest cities: tryย The Juliet in Lafayette, or theย Watermark, which comes under the Marriott umbrella, in Baton Rouge, Louisiana.
In New Orleans, the sumptuously gorgeousย Hotel Peter and Paul, will make you sorry youโve ever slept anywhere else: its devotional past is combined seamlessly with a guest- and dรฉcor-conscious present.
Must-pack item
You know whatโฆ itโs more your must NOT pack item. Leave your headphones or AirPods at home and revel in the variety of music, the beguiling accents of the Louisiana locals and the mesmerising sounds of Mother Nature.
Okay, fine โ some sunscreen, mosquito repellent and a hat wouldnโt be the worst ideas ever.
How to do it
Louisiana deserves taking some time over, especially if you want to combine outdoor activity with city explorations, culinary adventures and historical deep-dives.
Allow aa week to travel between the main cultural hubs โ Lafayette, Baton Rouge and, of course, New Orleans, to enjoy not only the cities, but the natural landscapes within easy reach of them.
Anything else
Thereโs more to Louisiana than Mardi Gras โ over 400 festivals take place in this southern state each year.
Yes, thatโs more than one per day, so plan your trip around the ones that appeal most to you, whether thatโsย fried chicken,ย mythologyย orย live music.ย







