My palms were starting to sweat. In front of me was the huge, vertigo-inducing 7,218ft chasm of Yosemite Valley; on the other side, the iconic curved crescent of Half Dome.
I had taken my seat on a rock a few yards from the edge – as close as I dared to get – waiting for sunset. Every time I looked down, my hands felt clammier. So I kept my gaze firmly on Half Dome. This striking granite rock formation in Yosemite National Park is renowned for its distinctive, sheer face and rounded crest, more than living up to its name.
It didn’t matter one bit that I was sharing this evening with 43 other people; I had a front-row seat for one of nature’s great spectacles. As I looked across the gaping valley before me, I felt as though I was here by myself, as if the view and evening were mine alone.
As the minutes ticked by and the sun descended behind me, the beautiful golden light that had been bathing the vertical face of Half Dome slowly turned purple until the top of the dome finally relinquished the last rays of light that it was clinging onto. It was the perfect finale for my first day in Yosemite National Park.
Despite spanning some 1,463 sq miles – an area slightly larger than that of the entire country of Luxembourg – almost all visitors to the county stick to Yosemite Valley in the national park, which accounts for less than 1% of its total area.
Sure, here you’ll find some of Yosemite’s most iconic sights, like Glacier Point (where I watched the sunset), but beyond it are many other staggering natural landscapes that remain relatively unexplored. I too have been guilty of this in the past, ticking off famous sights like a supermarket shopping list, but on this occasion I was determined to venture beyond the park to seek out the region’s less obvious sights.
First, though, I couldn’t leave without a visit to the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. Home to over 500 mature giant sequoias, this grove in the southern part of the park played a pivotal role in the conception of national parks in the US.
During the Civil War of 1864, President Lincoln signed legislation safeguarding Mariposa Grove and Yosemite Valley for “public use, resort, and recreation”, marking the first time the federal government had designated scenic areas for preservation and eventually leading to Mariposa Grove being incorporated into Yosemite National Park in 1906, ensuring its ongoing protection.
In the grove, colossal sequoias reached skyward like skyscrapers, dwarfing everything around them – fully grown pine trees appeared like toothpicks against them. The most famous of the trees is Grizzly Giant, towering at almost 210ft and over 2,000 years old. Its bark, deeply furrowed and a rich rust colour, bore scorch marks from a lightning fire thought to have happened 200 years ago.
Further on, I came across Fallen Monarch, lying sprawled across the ground and a testament to the inevitable passage of time that eventually affects even these giants.
Afterwards, I drove out of the park’s western entrance, hugging the meandering course of the Merced River to reach the Hite Cove Trail, famous for the wildflowers that colour the sides of the path. Unlike the trails within the national park itself, you are unlikely to see many other people on this path – a fourteen-mile round trip to the abandoned mining settlement of Hite Cove – for much of the year.
The hike began with a lung-busting climb on a paved track before levelling out onto a gentle dirt track that wound through the trees. As I walked beneath towering oaks and fragrant pine trees, sunlight filtered through the canopy above, casting dappled shadows on the path ahead. The humidity of the late afternoon air carried a hint of dry earthiness, suggesting the beginnings of a new season as spring shifted to summer.
As I walked, the sound of the Merced River was a constant companion, its melodious rush echoing through the narrow canyon. I had missed the peak of the flowering season, but there was still a huge diversity of flora flanking the trail: poppies dotted the hillsides with orange and red; lupines stood tall in shades of purple and blue; and delicate baby blue eyes peeked out from among the rocks. The trail led me deeper into the canyon, where steep cliffs framed the river below, their sheer faces a testament to the forces that had shaped this rugged landscape over millennia.
It didn’t take long for the heat, humidity and elevation to bring my lack of fitness into stark focus, my legs becoming noticeably heavier with each step. After around 1½ miles, the narrow track began to dip down towards the river and the air cooled noticeably.
I followed a small path off the main trail, which took me down to a small beach of sand and rocks. I quickly removed my walking boots and – without even taking off my backpack – stepped into an ankle-deep pool that had formed between the rocks, splashing myself with the cold river water.
Just a few seconds was all my feet could take in the icy water, but it was enough to cool me down from combustible to content. The gentle murmur of the water and rustling of the leaves was a soothing backdrop to my thoughts, reminding me of how different this experience was from my previous night at Glacier Point where I had been far from alone.
Even among the crowds and on the well-trodden paths of the park, Yosemite’s magnificence has a way of making anyone feel small but connected – connected to the enduring beauty of the ancient sequoias, the ebb and flow of the river, and the rhythms of nature that has stood for millions of years.
But here, beyond the park, this was even more the case; alone, I was able to fully immerse myself in the raw beauty and solitude of the wilderness. The absence of other hikers made each step feel like a discovery, and the solitude allowed the landscape to reveal its secrets even more intimately. This is the true allure of venturing beyond anywhere famous – to experience the untamed and less-traversed paths where nature’s voice can be heard more clearly, and where the sense of connection is more profound and personal.
Need to know
Getting there: The nearest major airports are Fresno Yosemite International, San Francisco International and Oakland International, with Fresno being the closest. Car rental is available from all of these airports; make sure you check for any seasonal road closures or tire-chain requirements during winter months.
Getting around: The park operates a free shuttle service in Yosemite Valley that runs year-round, providing convenient stops at major attractions like Yosemite Village, Yosemite Falls and the Valley Visitor Center. During the summer, additional shuttle services extend to popular destinations like Mariposa Grove and Tuolumne Meadows. To explore the surrounding areas outside the park or for more flexibility, you will need your own vehicle, but be warned that parking can be limited during peak seasons. Cycling is another excellent way to explore, with several bike rentals available and miles of designated cycle paths.
Best time to go: Spring (April to June) is ideal for witnessing the park’s stunning waterfalls at their peak flow, with blooming wildflowers adding vibrant colours to the region. Summer (July to September) offers the warmest weather and full access to all areas of the park and beyond, but also brings the largest crowds. Autumn (October to November) provides a quieter experience with cooler temperatures and beautiful foliage, while winter (December to March) is perfect for those who enjoy snow activities, such as snowshoeing and skiing, particularly in the Badger Pass Ski Area.
Where to eat: From fine dining at Ahwahnee Hotel to more casual options like Yosemite Valley Lodge’s Base Camp Eatery or the food court at Curry Village, there are numerous dining options to suit various tastes and budgets in Yosemite Valley. Alternatively, the nearby town of Mariposa offers a multitude of dining options. 1805 Restaurant and Brewery is a popular choice for its American cuisine. There are also dining options like Charles Street Dinner House for a cosy, rustic meal and Castillo’s Mexican Restaurant for authentic Mexican dishes.
Where to stay
In the Park: Ahwahnee Hotel A historic hotel known for its luxurious rooms and stunning architecture.
Yosemite Valley Lodge Conveniently located near Yosemite Falls, offering comfortable rooms and easy access to Yosemite Valley’s main attractions. Curry Village Offers a range of accommodations, from canvas tents to cabins, ideal for those looking for a unique experience. Housekeeping Camp For a more rustic experience, this camp offers units with three concrete walls, a canvas roof, a double bed and a bunk bed.
Near the Park: Tenaya Lodge Located just outside the park’s south entrance, this upmarket lodge has a variety of rooms, suites and cabins. It offers a spa, multiple dining options and numerous outdoor activities.
Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort Situated in Midpines, about 25 miles from the park’s entrance, this resort offers a range of options including hostel dorms, private rooms and cabins. The resort features a health spa, a café serving organic meals and various recreational activities.
Further information: yosemite.com; nps.gov/yose
Local tips
By David Bailey, Sierra Cider (sierracider.com)
My favourite spot for food and live music on Friday nights is the Grove House in Mariposa. Downtown Mariposa is becoming increasingly charming, with unique stores like Okie Dokie for ceramics and home decor, and the newly opened Californian charcuterie shop.
As a theme park enthusiast, I love visiting the Sugar Pine Railroad in Oakhurst, which offers rides on an old steam engine and the unique Jenny car – a Model T truck with train wheels.
For visitors, especially families, the Sugar Pine Railroad is a must-see. During Halloween, be sure to visit our farm as it transforms into a Halloween extravaganza, featuring a haunted orchard and a pumpkin patch, and providing a spooky and fun experience for all.
