From Laguna’s golden shores to Temecula’s vineyards and Palm Springs’ desert oasis – a SoCal road trip through wellness and wine country is a vacation for the soul.
“If you’re having fun, you’re doing it right,” Dave Sullenger proclaims, his arms thrown wide like a game show host revealing a brand-new car. The group around him, about a dozen sun dappled strangers in Laguna Beach, blurts out a collective “Ha-ha haa!”.
Their choreographed laughter rises above the omnipresent sounds of crashing waves and keening pelicans. This is laughter yoga, a light movement class held four times a week on Main Beach, in which the only real requirement is that you must laugh – even if you have to fake it – until it turns into the real thing. And trust me, it will turn real.
Maybe it’s the sheer absurdity of standing under the blindingly cheerful Southern Californian sky, forcing out giggles between a retired engineer and a woman in a tie-dye kaftan. Or maybe it’s the way joy, much like a rogue wave, has a habit of sneaking up on you in this lively beach town. Either way, within minutes, the whole group is doubled over, shaking with unfiltered, contagious laughter. It’s playful, silly and strangely life-affirming, very much like a full-body reset.
As I catch my breath, grinning at the sheer ridiculousness of it all, I realise this is exactly why I planned this trip. Three days, three destinations; a Southern California road trip built entirely around one goal: to feel good. Not just relaxed but completely restored. Laguna Beach has long been in the business of spreading good vibes. The persistent sunshine seems to melt everyone into some kind of blissed-out affability, while the spirit of Eiler Larsen, who became the official town greeter, lingers like salt in the air.
For decades, Larsen stood on Pacific Coast Highway, waving and calling out “Hello!” to passing cars like a one-man welcome committee. Though he has passed on, his memory lingers through statues around town – a testament to the fact that here, kindness isn’t just encouraged, it’s practically a local ordinance. Beyond the sun-kissed euphoria, the soul of Laguna is in its art.
With two of the country’s top art festivals calling Laguna home, residents cling to the belief that a life without art is a life poorly lived. Along the beach, plein-air painters dot the cliffs like human seagulls, capturing the shifting light with practiced strokes. At Blk Dot Coffee, I chat with friendly students from the vibrant Laguna College of Art + Design.
After gallery hopping through some of the village’s more than 100 galleries, I stop at the Laguna Art Museum, a small but mighty institution that proves bigger isn’t always better. The collections form an ode to California artists, showcasing the kind of work that makes you see the state in a broader context: more rugged and more textured.
When I’ve finished swimming in the colours and stories, I find myself conveniently next door to Las Brisas, a restaurant that takes the whole ‘coastal dining’ concept and dials it up to eleven. Between the fresh seafood, margaritas that arrive in fishbowl-sized glasses and sweeping Pacific views, the experience is less of a meal and more of a prolonged, golden daydream.
And why stop at just one? This is a town that puts on a feast for the tastebuds as well as the eyes. Case in point: the tinned fish platter at The Lumberyard is a spread that feels like a passport to the world’s best coastlines.
It’s the kind of snack that pairs best with a crisp white wine and the smug satisfaction of knowing you’ve fully leaned into the happy, seaside lifestyle. Just 70 miles inland, the scene shifts from salty ocean breezes to sun-drenched vineyards, where the art of relaxation is taken just as seriously, if with a slightly higher alcohol content.
“Tucked between rolling vineyards and golden hillsides, Temecula is having a moment, boasting a wellness scene that feels both lush and restorative.”
Tucked between rolling vineyards and golden hillsides, Temecula is having a moment, emerging from the shadow of more famous California wine regions while boasting a wellness scene that feels both lush and restorative. My first stop is Spa Pechanga, where the treatment menu reads like a love letter to relaxation – herbal wraps, CBD massages and body scrubs that sound good enough to eat.
I opt for the Journey of the Payómkawichum, a cultural immersion experience that kicks off with a soundscape meditation, followed by a soothing massage that taps into the healing power of native botanicals, straight from the traditions of the region’s Indigenous people.
I drift out of the spa in search of the perfect bridge between deep relaxation and the rhythm of real life. Enter the Rose Haven Heritage Garden, a sprawling hillside oasis filled with nearly 2,000 rose bushes, perfuming the air like an expensive fragrance commercial.
I meander along the winding paths, one foot still in the dreamlike tranquillity of the spa, the other gently stepping back toward the world. No visit to Temecula is complete without surrendering to the reason most people come here: the wine. I start at South Coast Winery, a powerhouse that has racked up more awards than I can count and somehow still feels laid back.
A glass of their Sauvignon Blanc on the sun-drenched patio is the perfect re-entry into civilisation. From there, it’s on to Wilson Creek Winery, famous for its almond sparkling wine, which sounds gimmicky but is, in fact, dangerously drinkable. And finally, for a touch of pure Temecula whimsy, Briar Rose Winery, which looks so much like a fairytale village I almost expect my glass to be refilled by adorable woodland creatures.
By sunset, the hills are glowing gold, my shoulders have never felt looser, and I’ve officially bought into the Temecula lifestyle – one where wellness and wine country go hand in hand. But before I start researching vineyard real estate, there’s another kind of California fantasy calling.
If Laguna Beach is all sun-kissed friendliness and Temecula is the laid back, wine-drenched retreat, then Palm Springs is their effortlessly cool, slightly cheeky cousin who always knows where the best party is.
To get there, I opt for the long way, wending up Highway 74 – AKA, the Palms to Pines Scenic Byway – where the road takes a dramatic ascent through evergreen-studded mountains before descending into the desert.
Palm Springs feels like a mid-century mirage, a place where time stopped in 1962 because it was having too much fun to keep moving. The city first became a desert playground for Hollywood’s elite thanks to the ‘two-hour rule,’ a studio mandate that required actors to stay within a short drive of Los Angeles while under contract, and has maintained a glam sheen ever since.
Everywhere you look, there’s either a perfect vintage car, a poolside cocktail, or a sexagenarian man wearing teensy white shorts with enviable confidence. With nothing but pure, unadulterated lounging on my agenda for the day, I decide to earn my leisure time by kicking things off with a morning hike. Tahquitz Canyon is the perfect choice – one of those rare places where you can feel like an intrepid explorer while staying a mere ten-minute drive from your next martini.
This isn’t just a scenic detour; it’s a place where the earth thrums with energy as myth and geology intertwine. The canyon is the ancestral home of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians and holds deep spiritual significance. Below the surface of the land, three fault lines converge, their ancient collisions shaping the towering rock walls.
It was here that the ancestors banished Tahquitz, a powerful shaman who turned selfish and destructive; his restless spirit is said to still prowl the gnarled cliffs. The desert silence is thick with reverence during the hour-long trek, broken only by the crescendo of the trail’s grand finale: a spectacular 60ft waterfall whooshing over granite into a sparkling, crystal-clear pool.
“This isn’t just a scenic detour; it’s a place where the earth thrums with energy as myth and geology intertwine.”
Wading into the icy water feels both decadent and exhilarating, a reminder that even in the heart of the desert, Palm Springs finds a way to slip in a little luxury. After a day spent immersed in the canyon’s raw beauty and deep history, it only feels right to embrace the city’s more refined side too.
Dinner is at Mister Parker’s, a restaurant that feels like a secret whispered in velvet, tucked into a space that’s moodily lit, decadent and ever so slightly mischievous. Waiters glide by with jewel-toned drinks, and the menu leans unapologetically indulgent. Nothing here is quite what it seems.
The flickering candle on the table? It’s actually butter for your bread. As the meal concludes, the server slips a package of pastries on the table with a note: “I hope it was as good for you as it was for me – Mister Parker.” A night in Palm Springs isn’t complete without at least one after-dinner detour, so off I go to Counter Reformation, a slender, dimly lit wine bar tucked in the back of the Parker Palm Springs Hotel.
The whole place feels like a chic speakeasy for people who treat wine lists like adventure maps. I sip something exquisite, nibble on caviar and doughnuts, and take in the scene: hip, intimate, the kind of place where strangers strike up conversations and then promptly duck into the confessional booth. (Yes, a real confessional booth. No, I didn’t dare ask what they had to confess.)
By the time I step outside, the desert air has cooled, the stars are putting on a ridiculous show, and I feel it – that deep, full-body exhale that only comes when you’ve taken care of yourself by chasing joy in all its forms. A laughter yoga session under the Laguna Beach sun. A spa day in Temecula’s wine country. And finally, magical Palm Springs, where the night is always young, and for a little while, real life fades into the background.
Need to know: Southern California
Getting there: From the UK, fly to John Wayne Airport Orange County, which is about 15 miles from Laguna Beach.
Getting around: Hiring a car is essential for travelling between cities. Once you arrive, Laguna Beach offers a free trolley, but Temecula’s wine country is best explored by car (or by hiring a local driver). Palm Springs is perfect for adventuring by bike or on foot.
Best time to go: You can’t go wrong any time of year, but autumn offers quieter beaches, mild desert days and festive harvest events in wine country.
Where to eat: The Loft at Montage Laguna Beach (montage.com) boasts unbeatable ocean views. In Temecula, The Goat & Vine (thegoatandvine.com) is a winner. Don’t miss the bold flavours of Palm Springs’ Lola Rose (lolaroseps.com), nestled in downtown, as well as Mister Parker’s (parkerpalmsprings.com).
Where to stay: The Ranch at Laguna Beach theranchlb.com / The Vine House Bed & Breakfast, Temecula vinehousebedandbreakfast.com / The Parker Palm Springs parkerpalmsprings.com
Further information: visitcalifornia.com
