This dramatic landscape, layered with lush valleys and striking peaks – including the Matterhorn, one of the world’s most recognisable mountains – has all the powder snow, dramatic icescapes and world-class climbing that you would expect.
But there is so much more to discover here, too. With an average of 300 days of sunshine per year, the valleys of the Valais feel positively Mediterranean in the summer, with the produce to match – vineyards bursting with grapes, and orchards producing sweet apricots, cherries and pears.
This is a landscape that has been – and continues to be – shaped by the people that live here; from winemakers and artisans to the guides that can help you to get out and explore, they will all contribute to a vivid immersion in this staggering region.
Saas-Fee/Saastal
There’s a lot of competition for the title, but Saas-Fee might just be the most enchanting village in the Valais. No cars are allowed here, so when you’re dropped off by bus on the edge of the village and walk through the rows of picturesque wooden chalets, you’ll feel like you’re crossing the threshold into somewhere elevated above the cares of modern life.
That’s quite literally true, given you’re 5,900ft above sea level and surrounded by views of towering 13,000ft mountain peaks.
A number of breathtaking hiking and biking trails, accessible most of the year, crisscross the valley. The Mattmark Dam – the largest earth dam in Europe – was built in the 1960s, creating a reservoir full of gorgeous electric-blue glacial water, which exhales a cool breeze that is very welcoming after a hike.
There are endless route options around here; the four-mile Mattmark Valley Trail between the reservoir and Saas-Almagell is a good place to start.
Hiking’s hungry work – thankfully, the dam is home to Restaurant Mattmark, which serves a menu of delicious local mountain dishes like raclette, goulash and Saaser hauswurst (cold sausage), a speciality local sausage made from beef, pork and beetroot.
Gornergrat Railway
Whether you’re a train enthusiast or not, you can’t visit the Valais without taking a trip on the Gornergrat Railway. One of Europe’s most dramatic rail journeys, this line offers the best views possible of the mighty Matterhorn from its 10,130ft perch – and also provides sweeping views of the great white tongue of the Gorner Glacier as well as a whopping 28 other 13,000ft peaks.
The train departs from the village of Zermatt and ascends all the way to the summit of the Gornergrat, making it making it the highest open-air cogwheel train in Europe.
As special as the views are the trains themselves, the railway was built in 1898 and was electrified from the very beginning; the modern carriages retain a vintage look while being updated to modern standards.
To travel in the ultimate style, choose the NostalChic Class, in a carriage preserved from 1961 that reflects the vintage glamour of the golden age of rail travel. Decorated with vintage suitcases and telephones, with a guaranteed window seat promising fantastic mountain views, and a stop at Riffelalp for a lavish multi-course lunch, this is an unforgettable railway experience.
Aletsch Arena
The largest glacier in the Alps promises to be pretty epic, but nothing prepares you for the first time you glimpse the Aletsch Glacier in all its glory, snaking like a celestial highway of ice through the Bernese Alps from its birthplace in the Konkordiaplatz to its terminus at the Rhône Valley.
Twelve miles long and over a mile wide, this vast icy tongue is melting fast, and regularly throws up the many objects that it has eaten on its slow march over the centuries, including hikers’ bodies and even the fuselage of a plane.
Summer to early autumn are magnificent times to visit the Aletsch, when the warm weather lays open its icy landscapes to up-close exploration. Between June and October, you can even take a guided hike on the top of the glacier itself, a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that is also accessible, being open to anyone over the age of ten who is able to hike for six to eight hours.
For a more zoomed-out perspective, there are several places offering magnificent views over the Aletsch. The most famous is the Eggishorn Viewpoint, from where you can see (on a clear day) the entirety of the Aletsch, with a couple of bonus glaciers thrown in too, as well as some truly iconic mountains: the Eiger, Mönch, Jungfrau, the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc (Europe’s highest).
Nendaz
With over 155 miles of hiking trails to explore, Nendaz is a walkers’ summer paradise in the heart of the 4 Vallées ski area. Many of the walking trails follow the route of bisses, irrigation channels that have been made here by ingenious farmers to direct water from mountain streams to irrigate crops like apricots and raspberries since at least the 13th century.
The historical record also shows that the locals around here have been feasting on melted cheese for a similarly long period of time – and a raclette, cooked over a fire in the woods and accompanied by a crisp glass of local Fendant white wine, is the perfect reward after your day’s adventures on the trail.
If hiking is a little too gentle for your tastes, you can get your adrenaline fix on the Mont-Fort Zipline, which flies over the Tortin Glacier towards the Col des Gentianes at an altitude of over 10,800ft and a top speed of over 60 miles an hour.
Celliers de Sion
If you’ve never tried Swiss wine, that’s probably because the Swiss know to keep most of it for themselves – only 1% of the country’s wine is exported. Some of the best is produced in the Valais, the largest wine-growing area in Switzerland; Petite Arvine is the Valais’ indigenous grape, and produces fruity wines with a hint of pineapple, which pair beautifully with seafood.
Celliers de Sion provides an unforgettable introduction to Swiss wine; nestled above the terraced vineyards of the Rhône Valley, it brings together two historic wine estates and provides visitors with a modern gateway into centuries-old winemaking traditions.
It produces a wide range of fresh, aromatic wines from the sun-ripened vines, and offers guided tastings, vineyard walks and panoramic views that allow visitors to get to the heart of Valais wine culture.
Need to know: Valais
Getting there: The nearest major international airport is in Geneva, from where trains connect to Valais hubs such as Sion as well as many smaller towns.
Getting around: The easiest way to explore the region is by public transport; the train network in particular is excellent and, together with local buses, enables visitors to access all destinations.
Best time to go: Many of the activities available in Valais, such as glacier treks on the great Aletsch Glacier, are available between June and October. Come in winter for snow sports.
Where to eat: Don’t miss Restaurant des Alpes (des-alpes.ch) in Fiesch for Valais specialities such as fondue, raclette and cholera, a rustic pie.
Where to stay: In Haute-Nendaz, the lovely MAD Retreat (madretreat.ch) has gorgeous cabins clustered along a forested mountainside. In an elegant townhouse in the photogenic town of Fiesch, Hotel Des Alpes (des-alpes.ch) combines contemporary boutique style and comfort with a fantastic restaurant serving hearty country cuisine, plus an on-site microbrewery.
Further information: visitvalais.ch / saas-fee.ch / aletscharena.ch / gornergrat.ch / nendaz.ch / celliers.ch
