Paid partnership with Visit Tampa Bay
Free-roaming roosters in ‘Cigar Capital’ Ybor City
Kav Dadfar travels to Ybor City in Tampa Bay to learn about its Cuban influence.
Free-roaming roosters in ‘Cigar Capital’: to listen along to this story on the Ybor City in Tampa Bay, or to pause the playback, click the play button:
“You’re technically in Cuba right now!” joked my charismatic guide, Max Herman. But this wasn’t Havana, Vinales or Trinidad, but a small park in the heart of Ybor City, a neighbourhood and Historic National Landmark District in Tampa Bay, Florida.
I was standing in Parque José Martí, a compact green haven dedicated to the revered Cuban patriot and poet who played a crucial role in Cuba’s fight for independence.
Remarkably, the land on which the park sits is still considered Cuban territory – a gift from the United States to honour Martí’s legacy and a poignant reminder of Ybor City’s deep connections to Cuban culture.
The park isn’t the only weird and wonderful thing about this historic neighbourhood in Tampa Bay. Walking around Ybor City feels like visiting a living museum of Cuban culture: the rich aroma of cigars mingles with the spicy notes of local cuisine and the lively calls of roosters that roam the streets freely.
The chickens and roosters are a living link to Ybor’s past, harking back to the days when Cuban, Spanish, and Italian immigrants kept chickens in their yards.
My day had begun an hour earlier just as the sun had settled high in the sky on a gorgeous cloudless sunny morning. There, in front of the historic Hotel Haya, stood my guide Max in his immaculate white and navy blue short-sleeved shirt and fedora. Max was a bundle of energy with enough charisma and showmanship to make watching paint drying exciting.
Born and raised in Tampa, Max told me he had always been a bit of a “history nerd” and that his father had started a history tour of Ybor City after the real estate crash of 2009, both as a means to earn money and also a hobby. “I came on in 2013 and was in love with the idea of telling history stories and ghost stories,” said Max as we stepped out of Hotel Haya onto 7th Avenue, Ybor’s main thoroughfare.
The architecture immediately captured my attention: wrought iron balconies, brick facades, and vibrant murals – you could have been mistaken for thinking you had stumbled onto Bourbon Street in Louisiana. “Yes, this is like Bourbon Street but we have roosters,” said Max as I pointed out the similarities.
Ybor City – often dubbed ‘Cigar City’ – owes its existence to the cigar industry. In the 1880s, Vicente Martinez-Ybor, a Spanish entrepreneur, relocated his cigar manufacturing operations from Key West to Tampa, drawn by the promise of cheaper land and a more conducive business environment.
This move was transformative. Ybor’s decision to establish his factory here attracted thousands of immigrants, primarily from Cuba, Spain and Italy, who flocked to Tampa in search of work and a better life.
The importance of the cigar industry in Tampa’s historic development can’t be underestimated so I took a moment to visit one of the last remaining cigar factories in the area, the J.C. Newman Cigar Company Museum.
This working factory offers a fascinating glimpse into the storied history of one of the oldest family-owned cigar manufacturers in the United States. Housed in a beautifully restored 1910 factory building which is still producing cigars today, the museum showcases the evolution of cigar making through meticulously preserved artefacts, vintage equipment, engaging exhibits and a factory tour.
I walked around the factory, watching machines make cigar after cigar with effortless ease. But as well as automated processes the factory also still employs master cigar rollers, making their prized handmade cigars with the same meticulous process that has been passed down through generations.
“There was huge diversity in Ybor City, way before the rest of the world realised how important it is”
Max Herman
I couldn’t resist hand-rolling a few cigars myself as souvenirs, each one a reminder of Ybor City’s enduring legacy. These factories were once the heart of the community, where skilled artisans hand-rolled cigars with precision and care.
At its peak, Ybor City was producing millions of cigars annually, earning its moniker as the ‘Cigar Capital of the World’. This industry not only provided livelihoods but also fostered a sense of community and identity among the diverse immigrant population.
Reflecting on my morning in Ybor City, I was struck by how this neighbourhood encapsulates the essence of Tampa. The immigrants who came here seeking a better life built more than just an industry – they built a community of mutual support that continues to shape the city’s identity today.
For example, the district’s revival in recent years through urban renewal projects has turned dilapidated old buildings into a vibrant hub for arts, culture, and nightlife. The historic buildings, once silent, now buzz with activity as bars and restaurants in the evenings, and boutiques during the day, breathing new life into the area.
Tampa’s evolution from a sleepy outpost to a thriving metropolis is intertwined with the rise, fall and rebirth of Ybor City. The wealth generated by the cigar industry helped lay the foundations for modern Tampa, funding infrastructure and attracting further investment that has today led to it becoming one of the fastest-growing cities in the United States.
As I wandered through this historic district I realised that, as Tampa City marches with speed into the future, the origins of this neighbourhood are evident everywhere in the city from the arts to the thriving and diverse food scene.
But the whimsical feathered inhabitants who have become an essential part of the town’s charm are arguably the best living connection to Ybor City’s history. They not only serve as the town’s unofficial mascots, their vivid feathers and cheerful crowing infusing the neighbourhood with a unique character, but “they have civil rights,” as well Max remarked with a grin.
“Anyone who harms one is subject to substantial fines and criminal charges.” So beyond being merely a novelty, the free-roaming chickens are perhaps the best metaphor of Ybor City itself – colourful and full of life.
Need to know
Getting there
Tampa International Airport is well served by direct flights from the UK from both London Heathrow (via Virgin/Delta Airlines) and Gatwick (via British Airways).
There are also plenty of domestic flights to Tampa from all major US airports.
The airport is only around a 20-minute drive from Downtown Tampa.
Best time to go
The best time to visit is generally October to May when the weather is typically pleasant, with cooler temperatures and lower humidity.
Fall and winter months offer mild temperatures, averaging between 15°C to 27°C, making outdoor activities more enjoyable. There is also less rain compared to the summer months.
Tampa hosts various events during this period, such as the Gasparilla Pirate Festival in January, the Florida State Fair in February, Pride in March and the Tampa Bay Margarita Festival in May.
Where to stay
ROOST Tampa is a contemporary, extended-stay hotel located in the heart of the Water Street neighbourhood. It offers stylish accommodations with a blend of modern amenities and home-like comforts, ideal for both short and long-term stays.
The Tampa EDITION is a luxurious boutique property in the vibrant Water Street district. Known for its chic design and personalised service, the hotel offers an elegant retreat with a rooftop pool and fine dining options.
Must-pack item
Lightweight Clothing: Tampa’s weather is warm for most of the year, so pack light, breathable fabrics such as cotton and linen. Include shorts, t-shirts, sundresses, and swimwear.
Comfortable Footwear: Bring comfortable walking shoes for exploring the city, and sandals for the beach.
Sunscreen: The Florida sun can be intense, so high-SPF sunscreen is a must to protect your skin.
Hat and Sunglasses: These will provide additional protection from the sun and keep you cool.
Reusable Water Bottle: Staying hydrated is important, especially in the heat. A reusable water bottle is eco-friendly and convenient.
Rain Gear: An umbrella or a light rain jacket can be handy, especially during the summer months when afternoon showers are possible.
How to do it
Getting around Tampa is convenient and offers various options to suit different preferences. The TECO Line Streetcar System is a popular choice for travelling between downtown Tampa and historic Ybor City, providing a free and efficient tram service.
For those who enjoy being outdoors, walking and cycling are excellent ways to explore the city’s scenic neighbourhoods, parks, and waterfront areas, with numerous bike lanes and pedestrian-friendly pathways available.
Additionally, ridesharing services like Uber are widely accessible, offering a cheap and quick way to navigate the city and reach destinations that may be farther apart.
Anything else
To book a walking tour of Ybor City with Max Herman visit Tampa Bay Tours.
The 2.6 mile long Tampa Riverwalk links attractions, restaurants and bars like gems on a string and is easy for walking, running or cycling.
J.C. Newman Cigar Factory offers tours, three times a day, Monday through Friday at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 1:00 pm local time. To find out more or to book a tour, click here.
More information
This article was brought to you in partnership with Visit Tampa Bay.
Discover Tampa Bay for your next Florida vacation. Book a hotel, find a restaurant, or explore things to do with Visit Tampa Bay as your official guide.
Go to VisitTampaBay.com for more details, suggested itineraries and booking.
JRNY is an independent travel magazine published in the UK. Subscribe to JRNY for more stories like this.
