The Bajau Laut are a semi-nomadic people who live in the water surrounding the southern Philippines, Indonesia and Malaysia. Shrugging off tales of pirates and kidnapping, I headed out into the Celebes Sea.
My days on the water were characterised by an intoxicating hospitality which enabled me to witness first-hand how these sea-faring people live. I was able to understand the tussle the Bajau Laut feel between their traditional values and the modernity sought by many of their youth.
Above: Man weaving his way through the stilt houses around Omadal Island as they head out fishing; Visiting family, Bajau-style
Above: Around Bodgaya Island
Above: Coming home from a fishing trip near Omadal Island
Above: Bajau woman navigating the channels around Omadal Island; Happy to see us, a young girl offers an infectious smile
Above: Bajau boy fishing in the shallows around Bodgaya Island; Young Bajau boy curious to see what’s going on
Above: Bajau children playing in the sea around Bodgaya Island
Above: Heading home after a storm
Need to know
Getting there
Fly to Kota Kinabalu International Airport in Malaysia or Zamboanga in the Philippines. From Kota Kinabalu, take a domestic flight to Semporna, the main gateway to Bajau Laut communities.
From there, hire a boat to explore islands like Bodgaya, Maiga, or Mabul. If traveling from the Philippines, boats from Zamboanga head to Tawi-Tawi, where Bajau Laut settlements exist.
Best time to go
There’s no ‘bad’ time to visit Borneo but the months between March and October tend to be the driest, where the weather is warm, and the sea is calm, making boat travel safer and more enjoyable.
April to June offers the clearest waters, perfect for snorkelling and diving in the surrounding coral reefs.
Avoid the monsoon season (November to February), as heavy rains and rough seas can disrupt travel.
Where to stay
Try Semporna, Malaysia for accommodation. Examples include the Sipadan Inn, a budget-friendly hotel near the pier; the Seafest Hotel, a comfortable mid-range stay with sea views; or the Dragon Inn Floating Resort, a special stilt hotel over water.
To stay on the islands, try Mabul Water Bungalows, Kapalai Dive Resort, or Pom Pom Island Resort.
Must-pack item
A must-pack item when visiting the Bajau Laut is a dry bag. Since travel involves boat rides and water-based activities, a dry bag will protect your essentials like a phone, camera, and important documents from getting wet.
How to do it
You can arrange boat trips or guided tours through local agencies such as Scuba Junkie, Sipadan.com, or private boat operators in Semporna.
Guided tours are recommended for respectful interactions with the Bajau Laut.
Anything else
If you want to experience Bajau Laut cultural festivals, visiting around Hari Raya Aidilfitri (after Ramadan) or local maritime celebrations can provide a unique glimpse into their way of life.
