What started as a tiny town cradled in the most northeastern corner of Florida has transformed into a city where metropolitan energy blends with beach-town ease. Its neighbourhoods shift effortlessly from quaint and historical to hip and creative.
Its food scene? Completely underrated and overwhelmed with international flavours and chic-yet-casual spots.
Outdoors, it’s a playground of surf breaks, fishing piers and wooded walking trails; indoors it offers prestigious art museums and galleries, independent shops, local breweries and long-time music venues that make this flourishing coastal city feel like it’s got it all.
Beaches and waterways
Jacksonville may be Florida’s largest city by population and land mass, but within this bold city are bold,
blue-green waterways and miles of beaches that flow through the city like its veins.
Take Jacksonville Beach, for example – a lively strip where locals and visitors unite to catch some sun, swim and surf the Atlantic. Visit in November and you might catch some of the world’s best women surfers riding waves for the Super Girl Surf Pro competition, part of the World Surf League Qualifying Series. This event takes place beside the famous Jax Beach Pier – rebuilt in 2022 after being destroyed by hurricanes in 2016–17, it has become a symbol of the beaches’ strength and resilience.
Not much of a surfer? Hop on a speed- or sailing boat on the north-flowing waters of the St. Johns River. Glide along the coast and under Jacksonville’s bridges to relish the river and downtown skyline. If you’re lucky, you might spot a dolphin or manatee popping its curious head above water to say hello. For a more personalised experience, St. Johns River Taxi offers tours to explore the river’s natural beauty and wildlife by day, or sail on a sunset cruise by night.
For even calmer waters, head out to Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve to the north of the city, where you can explore the vast wetlands – which include the beautiful Talbot Islands – by kayak with PADL. Seek out Boneyard Beach, where the whitened skeletons of trees create a striking panorama against the sea and sand.
Meanwhile, fishing enthusiasts can make the most of Jacksonville’s 1,110 miles of interior shorelines, casting a line over bridges, marinas, parks and preserves while enjoying Florida’s beloved pastime. Try your luck catching whiting or drum from the Nassau Sound Fishing Bridge – one of the city’s best fishing spots – or kick back in the soft sands of Hanna Park and wait for catfish to bite.
No matter where you go, Jacksonville’s waterways are a playground for marine lovers. Just remember your fishing license.
Food
Jacksonville serves up an understated culinary city where southern flair, seafood and international cuisines collide. Its influx of immigrants from Latin America, the Caribbean, the Philippines and beyond have transformed the city into an unexpected melting pot, reflected in its food trucks, markets, breweries and restaurants, and worth exploring for its food alone.
Home to one of the largest Naval bases in the country, Jacksonville welcomed many Filipino families whose members enlisted in the US Military during World War II with the promise of citizenship.
This led to large Filipino communities – and unbeatable Filipino food, from popular chicken abodo and sweet halo-halo to crisp-comforting lumpia, all of which can be savoured in places like Purple Roots and Abstrakt Filipino Essence, led by longtime local chef Jojo Hernandez.
Jacksonville’s broader Asian Food Market has also flourished, which, alongside R&D International Market, has gone viral on social media for its diverse vendors from across the continent.
Latin American flavours are just as prevalent in the city, with restaurants like El Agave Azul, Taqueria Cinco, 1928 Cuban Bistro, Arepa Please and Pepe’s Hacienda showcasing the cuisines from Mexico, Cuba and Venezuela.
For signature local eats, Biggie’s Pizza stands out with its crispy New York-style slices and a cool nod to New York hip-hop. Sub Cultured in Mayport may look like a small yellow house from afar, but get closer and you’ll find some of the city’s most reputable subs; another great option is Angie’s Sub Shop in Jacksonville Beach.
For BBQ, the Bearded Pig is a favourite, alongside Jenkins Quality Barbeque, which has been serving Jacksonville since 1957. Soul food? Head to the Potters House’s Soul Food Bistro.
For something more elegant, River and Post combines dinner and stunning views from its Riverside rooftop bar, while Catullo’s – which started as a food truck by brothers Carl and Dave Catullo – became an Italian staple when they opened their bricks-and-mortar in 2019.
Jacksonville’s food trucks are an equal delight, and during the pandemic became saviours for locals, parking in residential areas to offer brief moments of social interaction. One long-time favourite, TacoTorro, has been serving tacos, burritos, esquites and aguas frescas along the beaches for over a decade.
For serious Southern-style comfort delights, the Bawk Bawk Chicken truck delivers chicken wings smothered in savoury sauces, as well as golden-fried prawns, catfish and crabmeat balls. 904 Saffron serves Mediterranean food, while Hard Pressed Burgers smashes award-winning patties outside the Ink Factory Brewery.
Wash everything down at one of Jacksonville’s beloved local breweries. The city’s craft beer scene is so deeply rooted in its culture that it even created the ‘Jax Ale Trail’, complete with its own passport that can be stamped at participating breweries in exchange for free prizes.
Early birds and coffee connoisseurs can hop on the Jax Coffee and Donut trail, which features a delightful array of cafés and bakeries. Stop by Brew Five Points for sweet treats and Texas-inspired brunch plates, or Social Coffee House – owned by former Jacksonville American-football player Arrelious Benn and his wife Meriel – for a variety of coffees, teas and sandwiches on the westside.
Great outdoors
The magic of Jacksonville lies in its seamless blend of modern city aesthetics and its wild natural landscape – and what a landscape it is. The city holds the largest urban park system in the country, with over 80,000 acres dedicated to Florida’s diverse, vibrant flora. Here, long-distance walking trails wind through wet marshes, trees tower above multistorey historic houses, and miles of beaches stretch along the coast.
The Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve – a US National Preserve and haven – encompasses 46,000 acres of natural land, thick forests and thriving wildlife. Picture untouched wetlands surrounded by woods and cattails, dirt trails shaded by towering trees draped in Spanish moss, and symphonies of birds accompanied by chirping crickets and cicadas, with the recurring rustling of squirrels leaping from branch to branch.
The preserve also holds deep historical significance. Named after the Native American Timucuan tribe that once lived here before colonisation swept through the state, it offers a glimpse into the past at its southern entrance, Fort Caroline. Originally built in the late 1500s, you’ll find replicas of Timicua homes and artefacts on display here.
Trek to Jacksonville’s northside and explore Big Talbot Island State Park, home to Black Rock and Boneyard Beaches. These stunning strips of coastlines are dotted with petrified oak and cedar trees, creating an eerie, back-in-time feel unlike the city’s more lively beaches.
Old driftwood floats along the shallow shores and a low tide – especially at dawn – reveals wide rock formations, providing shelter for hermit crabs and tiny sea creatures.
For more polished greenscapes, Jacksonville’s Riverside and Memorial parks are gems for al-fresco reading, people watching and sun-soaked picnics. They are part of the parks and open spaces that form the up-and-coming Riverfront Parks.
Thanks to major city funding, the long stretches of land along the St. Johns River in downtown are being transformed into vibrant new spaces, each with its own theme – starting with Jacksonville’s Friendship Fountain. This downtown monument had a glow-up in 2023 and now hosts fun events, yoga sessions and more.
In East Arlington, the Jacksonville Arboretum holds 120 acres of trails, trimmed gardens and untouched woods, with occasional outdoor yoga sessions. Visit during Christmas or Halloween to see the arboretum’s illuminated ‘W’. Less than 15 minutes away, Ed Austen Regional Park draws frisbee golf enthusiasts to its green course, and runners to its well-paved track loop.
Diverse neighbourhoods
You don’t have to travel far to discover Jacksonville’s eclectic neighbourhoods, each bringing its own personality and flair to create the diverse city it is today.
Start your journey in Springfield, Jacksonville’s oldest neighbourhood, once home to wealthy residents and silent film stars back when the city was in the running to be the country’s film capital – before Hollywood took the crown.
By the mid-20th century, Springfield lost its lustre, but today is in the midst of a serious revival. New independent shops and restaurants line its streets (stop by Springfield Scoops to cool off from the Florida heat), alongside outdoor community libraries and large, renovated historic homes.
Visit in November for Porchfest, where locals decorate their porches and sip drinks to celebrate Springfield’s historic architecture, its blossoming community and Jacksonville’s local music scene.
Riverside and Five Points share the same charm, but with the added bonus of waterfront views and streets shaded by towering trees. Here, elegant historic homes mingle with charming shops and restaurants. Browse independent stores, find good places to eat and finish the day with an al-fresco cocktail on one of the rooftop bars, where views stretch over the neighbourhood.
Across the river in the Southbank, San Marco radiates more historic charm, leafy streets, and a walkable mix of indie shops, restaurants and parks – all just steps from downtown and the St. Johns River.
Begin at the heart of the neighbourhood at the Three Lions Fountain in San Marco Square before wandering your way through local businesses like Electric Dough, a new pizza spot located in the former San Marco Theatre, or Maple Street Biscuit Co., which slings some Southern comfort with some ridiculously good biscuits smothered in gravy.
As night falls, Grape and Grain serves up elegant cocktails in a speakeasy setting, while Jack Rabbits hosts live music from the likes of Paramore, Modest Mouse and The Ting Tings.
Casual-cool surfer vibes meet Southern charm and a splash of affluence at Jacksonville’s Beaches. Locals cruise along Third Street – the main road connecting Neptune, Atlantic and Jacksonville beaches – on bikes, skates or by foot (if you’re driving, arrive early to find a parking space).
The Beaches Pavillion is the heart of the action, hosting dozens of events and festivals all year round with vendor stalls set up along the yard and live music echoing from the giant seaside stage.
Ironically, some of the most lively beach events take place in the chillier seasons: on Thanksgiving, crowds gather for Pete’s Bar’s legendary block party in Atlantic Beach, while at Christmas the annual Deck the Chairs exhibit transforms lifeguard chairs into illuminated, whimsical works of art decorated by local businesses.
Culture
It’s taken time for Jacksonville to grow into the cultural hub it is today, but great things are worth the wait. Since the millennium, the city has certainly undergone a major transformation, opening doors for local artists, musicians and cultural spaces that have educated young locals as much as they’ve entertained them.
Today, events like the Jacksonville Jazz Festival – which has been graced by legends like Miles Davis, James Brown and modern icons such as Janella Monáe and The Roots – and the annual World of Nations, where families can ‘travel’ across the world through food and customs, have cemented Jax as one of North Florida’s most multicultural hot spots.
Wake up early on Saturday mornings to head to the Riverside Arts Market, where local artisans and producers line the riverfront with stalls piled high with fresh produce, baked goods, plants and artwork. The air is filled with the scent of pastries and coffee as local musicians perform on stage, with the flowing St. Johns River in the background. Come in chilly February and you might just stumble into the annual chilli cook-off to bring some heat.
While you’re in the area, make a stop to the Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens next door. Inside, its galleries hold more than 5,000 prestigious works of art, spanning centuries and styles. The artistry continues in the gardens, which are masterpieces of their own.
Begin at the sculpture garden, where contemporary forms greet you before you even reach the museum’s door. Finish your visit in the Italian, English and Olmsted gardens, each with its own personality but blossoming into living works of art.
Deeper into Downtown Jax, you’ll find MOCA – the thought-provoking, interactive Museum of Contemporary Art. But don’t assume all creativity is confined to inside these gallery walls. The whole city serves as a canvas, splashed with art so impressive that enthusiasts embark on mural tours to spot them.
Keep an eye out for Midnight City, one of Jax’s earliest murals by Mac Truque in 2005, or the technicoloured, geometric gem The Dance of the Seven Sins Muses painted by Okuda San Miguel in 2017. The artistic energy continues at the James Weldon Johnson Park, where new festivals and events pop-up every month in the heart of Downtown.
Time your visit to attend ArtWalk, held on the first Wednesday of every month – its main area is within JWJ Park but the event spreads across multiple city blocks. You can expect booming music, food and retail vendors and local artists in their natural habitat. It’s here that Jacksonville stitches together its people into vivid patchwork – diverse, vibrant and united – creating a living tapestry worthy of its tagline: the Flip Side of Florida.
Need to know: Jacksonville
Getting there: British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, Delta and other airlines offer flights to Jacksonville connecting from Atlanta, Boston and JFK.
Where to stay: Jacksonville offers affordable accommodation all across the city. Book a room at Casa Marina in Jacksonville Beach for a historical stay, or the Riverdale Inn in Riverside for a cosy bed and breakfast. Downtown’s Hyatt Regency combines riverside views with modern amenities.
Further information: visitjacksonville.com
